12-16-10: Second Day in Luang Prabang

Today was a mish-mash adventures had while doing more wandering around
Luang Prabang. We started at Saffron Cafe for coffee and wi-fi. After
we didn't order more than drinks, they gave us the check. It felt very
much like we were getting kicked out - buy something more or stop
using our Internet. Not sure if that was their sentiment, but we
shoved off anyways. We wanted steaming bowls of soup for breakfast as
that goes best with the dreary, cold mornings here. We went back to
the pho shop from last night and it again did not disappoint. I think
it was even better because if they do clean, they clean in the
morning. We also found a small hidden market and a nice photo shop
displaying work by Paul Wager. I haven't looked him up online, but he
seemed pretty interesting from the display.

Next we walked out of town to the newest and biggest market in Luang
Prabang, Phosy Market. It took us a spell to realize that we were
there, I mistook the sign "Ban Pho Si" for a sign for a nearby called
Phu Si. What a difference those vowels make! The place was a maze of
stalls, inside they were selling things, outside they were selling
consumables. Mountains of produce of all varieties and chopped meat
bits, live meat bits and soupy, gooey meat bits. The fish sludge was
the worst smelling thing you can imagine and they were doling it out
into individual plastic bags as if someone would want to buy some...to
EAT! No us. We had to leave that section because the smell was so
nauseating.

Story Worthy: Bathroom Blunder

Next I had to ask three people to locate the bathroom that I has just
literally walked past. I left Robert waiting downstairs and around the
corner as I unraveled the pointed directions. I should have left my
new sack purse and the camera with my male friend, but I did not, so
squatting was an interesting affair. The best part came as I left the
bathroom and there was an attendant asking for money. I hadn't noticed
her on my way in because I seriously needed to pee. I also hadn't
noticed the signs (in Lao) probably informing me of the fee; signs in
Lao are clearly not meant for me and certainly not important enough to
puzzle over before using the squatter, but now I was in a predicament
- it was not my day to carry the money, I had nothing to give the
woman!!! I panicked. Robert was too far away to notify easily. I
started trying to rifle through my money belt; I was sure that Robert
had given me some large bills to stash so that I would always have
some money.

I haven't even acclimated to the new look of Lao currency. I pulled
out a travelers cheque thinking that looked appropriately foreign.
Then I pulled out a large Baht bill. I was a mess and all the while a
friend of the attendant was trying to peek into my stash so she could
help me find the right one. I didn't want her to see my fat wad of US,
compounding my difficulty at navigating the money belt. Clearly I had
money, just no Kip. They then tried to get me to use a shady gold
seller to change money, at which point I refused. I tried to explain
that my friend had money, he was just far away. Then I bolted. I must
have been quite a sight when I finally found Robert, being chased by
the bathroom attendant's friend and as embarrassed as a tomato. It was
a traumatic experience for me, but in the end, the woman got her 3,000
Kip and I no longer had an elephant sitting on my bladder.

Quick Re-Cap

We admired the fake iPhones and located the only non-whitening soap in
the joint to replenish our supply. (This is a long shot, but I just
had an epiphany. I got this funny rash on my arm when we first got to
Thailand, weeks and weeks ago. I never understood what it was, it was
dark and didn't itch, but over the weeks it sort of faded and now I
notice that where the rash was, my skin is lighter. Or...it was
whitened!!! I tried a whitening soap that was left in the bathroom
when we had just arrived. Here is proof - the ubiquitous whitening
soaps work! Or maybe I made it all up, but it is hard to find
non-whitening soap or lotion.)

Next we got a baguette sandwich from a street vendor, which have also
become ubiquitous around here...mildly reminiscent of bahn mi, but not
quite. The woman did offer sriracha, but it wasn't what we know as
sriracha at home and it was not spicy hardly at all. Next we got more
Internet and a coffee and a shake. We used a travel agent to arrange a
minibus to take us to Nong Kiaw, our next destination in Lao, famous
for being beautiful, but so far, all the scenery in Laos has been
stunning so we shall see how this differs.

Nap/read/write. We are becoming serious old folks, an afternoon nap is
essential. Next we went for more food. Couldn't for the life of us
find the "top pick" in the guidebook, so we ate at "ThePizza" instead,
but we got Lao food. Power shut off half-way though dinner and
continued by headlamp (torch, as they are called here). It is getting
colder and rainy --- it IS winter!

We paid up to escape a dreadfully drunk and embarrassing American
girl. She actually asked her companions if they were aware that France
didn't have French fries. When we left, she was asking for an extra
tablecloth to wrap up in because she was wearing next to nothing and
it was cold. I hope they kicked her out. We fled. The one thing I
don't think I have mentioned about restaurants here is that the dishes
are prepared and delivered in series, never in parallel. You would
wait thirty minutes to eat if you wanted everyone to eat together, so
no one does. It was strange to get used to at first, but it is very
much the norm now.

Next we perused the area where the Hmong Market should have been and
marveled at its absence. The on-off drizzle cleared the place out;
those that stayed had procured tarps and plastic sheeting to protect
their wares, but many of the scarf sellers were definitely wearing the
merchandise. It was cold! We saw a group of kids playing some form of
the game "rock, paper, scissors," but you can only stare at someone
else's kids for so long without being creepy, I don't care how white
your skin.

Ssssst!!

Finally, we headed home. One last, brief adventure. We walked past a
dark alley and a man said, "ssst!" to get our attention. We of course
looked and he spoke something and touched his lips. He was offering
drugs. We didn't investigate what, but it was clear that there was an
offer on the table. We were really curious about what he was selling
though! This is actually our second brush with drugs in Laos. I was
eavesdropping on a man on the slow boat to Pak Bang talking to a tout
that had recently boarded our boat just as we arrived. The traveller
said he needed a room, but then pulled out a paper to remind himself
what to say and asked if the tout had any "happy shake." The tout
nodded excitedly and produced a cellophane package of green bits.
There was much camaraderie and back slapping as the two assured each
other that, "your friend is my friend" and off they went. The stories
around here about drugs and subsequent, pre-meditated raids are
ridiculous. We will stay far away, but it is interesting hearing the
stories!